¡Tauromaquía! (bullfight!)

My main goal upon coming to Spain was to see a bullfight before leaving, and this past Saturday evening, I realized my goal upon attending the XI Festival Taurino in Granada’s plaza de toros (bullfighting arena).

Perhaps it was my year-long exposure to cadavers that did it, but for whatever reason, the sight of blood and death does not disturb me as it does with others. For that reason, I found this spectacle to be one of the best cultural experiences to date since being abroad in Spain. I will start this blog with an explanation of the 4 stages of bullfighting, and finish with a brief discussion of the cultural impact of bullfighting. As a warning to the weak-hearted, some of these photos are a little graphic!

Bullfighting, aka tauromaquía or corrida de toros involves professional performers, toreros or matadors who execute moves within close proximity of the bull, with the goal of appearing graceful and confident while maintaining control over the bull, toro. The act concludes with the death of the bull by a well-placed sword thrust. The history of bullfighting is often linked to early bull-worshipping and sacrifice. It is also believed to have been practiced by nobility as a preparation for war, hunting, and jousting, as early forms of Moorish bullfighting occurred with the bullfighter on horseback, attacking the bull using a javelin.

Today’s Spanish-style bullfighting, known as the corrida de toros, features a matador, or prime killer, and his assistants:
-2 picadors, lancers who jab the bull with spears from horseback.
-2 banderilleros, flagsmen who implant decorated darts (banderillas) into the bull.

The modern Spanish corrida is very ritualized, beginning with the paseíllo, in which all the participants enter the arena to salute the presiding dignitary. The matadors line up, according to seniority, with the eldest matador on the far left, and the newest in the middle. This corrida of Granada featured 6 matadores, the eldest, Ortega Cano, was 53, and the youngest, Daniel Luque, 18.

El Paseíllo: opening processional ceremony of participants.

Part 1: The bull enters the ring and is tested for ferocity and bravery by the matador and the banderilleros, who use magenta and gold capes (capotes).


Part 2: The 2 picadores, armed with lances, enter mounted on heavily padded horses, and encourage the bull to attack the horses, which treat the attacks stoically and patiently. The picadores stab the bull’s neck, intending to pierce its circulatory system, thereby lowering its blood pressure so the bull will not die of a heart attack. Also, the bull’s charging at the horse will weaken its neck muscles, making him slightly less dangerous for the matador.

Picadores.

Part 3: The tercio de banderillas (“banderillas third”), in which the banderilleros plant barbed sticks into the bull’s flanks to further weaken its neck and shoulder muscles through tremendous loss of blood. Some skilled matadors, such as David Fandila, or “El Fandi,” will perform the banderilla themselves.

El Fandi, triumphantly performing the banderilla.

Part 4: The final stage in which the matador enters the ring alone with a sword and red cape (muleta), used to attract the bull using a series of distinct passes. By getting as close to the bull as possible, the matador demonstrates his courage and control over the bull. Contrary to popular belief, bulls are color blind, tending to attack moving objects, so the redness of the cape is only a matter of tradition.


Matador Enrique Ponce with his muleta.

The act of thrusting the sword (estocada), is meant to deliver a single, well-placed thrust into the bull which will lead to a quick and clean death. A matador’s final blow is generally fatal, but since the bull usually takes some time to die, a coup de grâce, or use of a dagger to further pierce the spinal cord, is issued. The bull’s body is then dragged out by a set of horses or mules. Occasionally, but rarely, a bull is allowed to live if it demonstrates supreme bravery, as indicated by a majority of spectators, who will wave handkerchiefs before the estocada. Such bulls are retired from competition and are raised as studs.

Enrique Ponce preparing for the estocada.

Dragging Ponce’s bull out of the arena.

A trophy (trofea), is awarded to matadors depending on crowd responses, as indicated by the waving of white handkerchiefs (or napkins, in my case). If more than half the crowd waves their kerchiefs, the matador is awarded one ear of the bull. To be awarded another ear, and or the tail of the bull (the highest honor), depends on the appreciation of the dignitary in attendance. The matador then takes a victory lap around the arena, waving to cheering fans, and often receiving bouquets, hats, and scarves thrown from the stands.

Handkerchiefs of aficionados (fans).

Victory lap of Ortega Cano, the oldest matador.

Phew! With all the logistics explained, I will go on to talk about the cultural aspects of bullfighting, as many, including myself, wonder what sparks the popularity of such a sport. Bullfighting is more of a ritual than a sport, success depends on how well a matador demonstrates his style and courage over the bull, and how well the audience receives his performance. Bulls are used in this spectacle because they are commonly viewed as worthy adversaries due to their strength and capacity to learn fast, which makes bullfighting a sort of race against time, who must kill the bull before it realizes what is going on and stops thrusting its horns at the cape. Also, since especially valiant bulls are allowed to keep their lives, bullfighting fans argue that the bull is given a fair chance to fight.

Anyway, I found this 2-hour event to be very enjoyable, especially with the appearance of David Fandila, “El Fandi,” a 25-year old torero from Granada currently the number one bullfighter in all of Spain. He is an extremely skilled and talented bullfighter, able to perform the banderillero (stabbing) and muleta (killing) portions himself, and demonstrates fearlessness when facing a bull, tending to dance with, playfully bully, and bow in front of the bull. He was captivating to watch. Click on the following links to see G-rated examples of how he performs:
El Fandi demonstration
About El Fandi & bullfighting

El Fandi performing a la verónica, facing the bull on his knees.

El Fandi bowing in front of his bull…the stands were full of people clamoring to see this performance!

Without hesitation, I recommend a visit to a bullfight at least once in your life, whether it be out of plain curiosity, or the urge to experience this age-old cultural event of Spain. It truly is not as gory or horrible as others make it out to be. Think of it this way: they make beef patties out of cows in worse ways than this!